Today I’m here going to discuss about how to make waterproofing compound by self at the site during the construction with cheaply available materials. I know it has been a long time since my last article, and maybe you, who are following Techno Genome regularly know the reason behind that, anyways let us concentrate on today’s topic. First of all we have to understand what a Waterproofing Compound is, and why it is required in a Civil Engineering Construction works.

ENTRANCE OF WATER IN BUILDING

Now we must understand why a civil engineer should resort to water proofing compound, and what benefits it can provide for that extra expenditure which will be needed for using the water proofing compound or a water proffer.
See actually every concrete surface or mortar surface has got fine pores throughout its body, which are known as the capillary pores. No matter how rich the concrete mix is, no matter how well compacted it is, there will be capillary pores, which are simply unavoidable, so when ever you will give some water on the exposed concrete surface or mortar surface you will notice that the concrete or mortar surface will be absorbing the moisture. Now the fact is what is the problem which will occur if the absorption capabilities exists on concrete or mortar surface? The actual problem lies in the fact that concrete and mortar surface not only absorbs moisture but also carbon di oxide and also other gasses and acids which will penetrate through the surface of concrete or mortar surface and mixing with the moisture it will form the respective acids of them and thus mainly two things can happen depending on the fact that whether it is a Reinforced Concrete or Plain Concrete. Suppose it is a Plain Concrete without any reinforcements then what will happen that those acidic solutions will dissolve the hardened cement compounds and will decay the concrete, and if it is RCC that is Reinforcements are there within the concrete, then the moisture and oxygen which penetrates through the body will cause the rusting of the steel reinforcement. So to cope up with this problem the best way is that we must not allow the moisture to enter into the hardened concrete or mortar surfaces, and to resist the moisture from entering through the surface pores. In case the heavy moisture enters into mortar it may cause even electrical short circuit. A Waterproofing Technique also helps in proper curing of the concrete by preventing the moisture from escaping from the inside of the concrete to the atmosphere.

What a Waterproofing Compound does is that it seals off the pores on the concrete and mortar surface by producing some chemical substances which forms due to the reaction of Water Proofing Compound with the Water and the reaction products seals the pores with insoluble products and blocks the moisture from entering through the pores.
But the most important fact is that though this chemical, that is Waterproofing Compounds are required in small quantity about 2% but being costly in many unimportant cases or in cases where due to any reason it is not possible to use a Branded Waterproofing Compound at places where it must be used, then What will we do?????
Yes, We are going to make it by our self, in the following manner. I’ve arranged it in simple manner without any complexities, Let us see.

Ingredients :

1. Cement : Sand = 1:2 by volume
2. Pulverized Alum @ 120 N per cu.m. of sand that is 12 kg per cu.m. of sand
3. Soft Soap @0.75 N or 75 gm. per Lit. of Water

Procedure :

• Take Required Quantity of Cement and Sand in the proportions of 1:2 by volume.
• Dry mix them well until a good texture is achieved which have to be judged by eyes that the mixing has been done enough.
• Add Alum in Powder form which can be done by crushing the Regular Alum bought from Hardware stores, and add it to the dry cement-sand mix at the rate of 12 kg per cu.m. of the sand in that dry mix.
• Now prepare the mixing water , first determine the amount of water required for producing a mortar of workable consistency, then add Soft Soap (Beauty Soap maybe used which are used for bathing) at the rate of 75 gm. per Lit. of water. and mix the water thoroughly with the soap.
• Now use this soap water and add it to the dry cement-sand-alum mix and prepare the mortar.
• Now this mortar has become a Waterproofing Mortar, use it on the surface of Concrete as a plaster or use for regular plastering works where Waterproofing is required.

But always remember it should be used in case only when it is not possible to use Branded Waterproofing Compounds, and on works which are not of major importance, as in adverse conditions it will not have the same power of resisting as a branded waterproofing compound.
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Here I’ve listed the most important factors which are to be taken care of while doing Brickwork of any nature structural brickwork or face lifting works in brickwork for better appearance. These points mentioned below should always be taken care strictly in the site of construction for achieving a long lasting durable structure.

• • The bricks should be of 1st class quality for structural works, or atleast of 2nd class quality in unavoidable circumstances, but those 2nd class bricks must posses atleast 60% of the field quality checks of bricks.
  • The bricks should be immersed in water for a continuous period of 2 hrs for best results, or atleast 1 hr for satisfactory results, but anything less than this can cause total loss of bond strength of the mortar due to the absorption of water from the mortar to the water hungry dry bricks.
  • Brickwork should be done for a maximum height of 1.5 m in a day, and nest continuation should be started only after the brickwork previously done achieves sufficient strength to hold the load without squeezing out of the mortar from the newly prepared brick joints of brickwork.
  • In case of doing brickwork of half brick thick brick walls or construction of brick on edge like 5″, 3″ or 4″ wall construction H.B. Netting should be done on every third layer, or the wall may fall down.
  • Mortar should be of proper proportion and consistency as required for different types of brickwork.

• The mortar which has been prepared must be used within its Initial Setting Time, that is  a period of 30 minutes for OPC and Blended Cements like PPC, PSC.
• Brickwork should be cured well for a period of atleast 7 days for good results.
• Brickwork should be raised in a manner of uniform level in height throughout its length, suppose  a wall is to be raised on the next layer of brickwork, then it should be done only after finishing the brickwork throughout the length in the current layer.
• Brickwork should be done in proper bonding.
• In Brickwork there must not be vertical joints in continuation, it must be be alternatively arranged by atleast overlapping one fourth portion of the brick above and below.
• Nothing less than Half Bats shall be used
• Connection between two walls of different alignment must be done with toothing in brickwork.

•  Primer: all surfaces for painting, if they are new, should have a coat of priming before application of the paint. Old surfaces where existing paints have been completely worn out owing to long use should also receive a coat of priming before application of fresh painting.

•  Synthetic Enamel Paint: Synthetic enamel paint of approved brand and manufacture and of the required shade shall be used for the top coat and an undercoat of shade to match the top coat and an undercoat of shade to match the top coat as recommended by the manufacture shall be used. Undercoat of the specified paints of shade suited to the shade of the top coat shall be applied and allowed to dry overnight. It shall be rubbed next day with the-fine grade of wet abrasive paper to ensure a smooth and even surface free from brush marks and all loose particles dusted off. Top coats of specified paint of the desired shade shall be applied after the undercoat is thoroughly dry. Additional finishing coats shall be applied if found necessary to ensure properly uniform glossy surface.

• Aluminium Paint: Aluminium paint of approved brand and manufacture shall be used. The paint comes in compact dual containers with the paste and the medium separately. The two shall be mixed together to proper consistency before use. Each coat shall be allowed to dry for 24 hours and lightly rubbed down with fine grade sand paper and dusted before the next coat is applied. The finished surface shall present an even and uniform appearance. As aluminum paint is likely to settle in the container, care shall be taken to frequently stir the paint during use. Also the paint be applied and laid off quickly, as surface is otherwise not easily finished.

• Plastic (Acrylic) Emulsion Paint: Plastic (Acrylic) emulsion paint are not suitable for application on external surface and surface which are liable o heavy condensation and are to be used generally on internal surface. For plastered surfaces a cement priming coat is required before application of plastic emulsion. Plastic emulsion paint of approved brand and manufacture and of the required shade shall be used. The paint will apply with usual manner with brush or roller. The paint dries by evaporation of the water content and as soon as the water has evaporated the film gets hard and the next coat can be applied. The time for drying varies from one hour on absorbent surfaces to 2 to 3 hours on non-absorbent surfaces. The thinning of emulsion is to be done with water and not with turpentine. Thinning with water will be particularly required for the undercoat which is applied on the absorbent surface. The surface on finishing shall present a flat, velocity, smooth finish. If necessary more coats will be applied till the surface present a uniform appearance.

• Varnishing: Varnish for the undercoat shall be a flatting varnish of the same manufacture as the top coats. New wood work to be varnished shall be finished smooth with a carpenter’s plane. Knots shall be cut to a slight depth. Cracks and holes shall be applied liberally with a full brush and spread evenly with short light strokes to avoid frothing. If the work is on the upstroke so the varnish shall be crossed and re-crossed and then laid off, the later being finished process will constitute one coat. If the surface is horizontal, varnish shall be worked in every direction with light quick strokes and finished in one definite direction so that it will set without showing brush marks. Rubbing down and fatting the surface shall be allowed to dry away from draughts and damp air. The finished surface shall then present a uniform appearance and fine not be poured back into the stock tin, as it will render the latter unfit for use. Special fine haired varnishing brushed shall be used and not ordinary paint brushes. Brushes shall be well worn and perfectly clean.
• Oiling with Raw Linseed Oil: Raw linseed oil shall be lightly viscous but clear and of a yellowish colour with light brown with light brown tinge. Its specific gravity at a temperature of 30 degree C shall be between 0.293 and 0.298. The oil shall be mellow and sheet to the very little smell. The oil shall be of sufficiently matured quality. Oil turbid or brick, with acid and bitter taste and rancid odour and which remains sticky for a considerable time shall be rejected. The oil shall be of approved brand and manufacture. The wood work shall be cleared of all smoke and water and completely dried. The oil shall be applied freely with brushes (not rags) and spread evenly and smooth until no more oil is absorbed. Each subsequent cost shall be applied after the previous coat is thoroughly dried and in any case not before 24 hours of application of the first coat. Work after completion shall not be patchy and sticky to the touch and shall present a uniform appearance.

• Wax polishing: Wax polishing shall be done with material of approved brand and manufacture. Preparation of surface will be same as for Varnishing. The polish shall be applied evenly with a clean pad of cotton cloth is such a way that the surface is completely and fully covered. The surface is then rubbed continuously for half an hour. When the surface is quite dry, a second coat shall be applied in the same manner and rubbed continuously for half an hour or until the surface is dry. The final coat shall then be applied and rubbed for two hours(more if necessary) until the surface has assumed a uniform gloss and is dry, showing no sign of stickiness. The final polish depends largely on the amount of rubbing which should be continuous and with uniform pressure with frequently changes in the direction.

•  French polishing: Pure shellac varying from pale orange to lemon yellow colour, free from resin or dirt shall be dissolved in methylated spirit at the rate of 150gm. Of shellac to a litre of spirit. Suitable pigment shall be added to get required shade. The surface shall be cleaned. All unevenness shall be rubbed down smooth with sand paper and well dusted. Knots if visible shall be covered with a preparation of red lead and glue size laid on while hot. Holes and indentations on the surface shall be stopped with glazier’s putty. The surface shall then be given a coat of wood filler made by mixing whiting (ground chalk) in methylated spirit at the rate of 1.4 kg. of whiting per litre of spirit. The surface shall again be rubbed down perfectly smooth with glass paper and wiped clean. A pad woolen cloth covered by a fine cloth shall be used to apply the polish. The pad shall be moistened with the polish and rubbed hard on the wood in a series of overlapping circles applying the mixtures sparingly but uniformly over the entire area of an even level surface, a trace of linseed oil on the face of the pad facilities this operation. The surface shall be allowed to dry and the remaining coats applied in the same way. To finish off, the pad shall be covered with a fresh piece of clean fine cotton cloth, slightly damped with methylated spirit and rubbed lightly and quickly with circular motions. The finished surfaced surface shall have a uniform texture and high gloss.

• Flat Wall Painting: The priming coat shall consist of “Distempering Primer or Cement Primer”. The flat wall paint shall be approved brand and manufacture and of required shade. The surface shall be prepared as described in sub-head “Cement Primer Coat”. Flat wall paint shall normally be applied on walls 12 months after their completion (in case of new work), in which case distemper primer will be sufficient. If the walls are to be painted earlier the primer coat shall consist of cement primer.

When the surface is dry, painting with the wall in uniform and even layers will be done to the required number of coats. Each coat shall be allowed to dry overnight and lightly rubbed with very fine grade of sand paper and loose particles brushed off before the next coat is applied. If after the final coat of wall paints the surface obtained is not up to the mark, further one of or more coat as required shall be given to obtain smooth and even finish at the cost of contractor. If primer or wall paint gets thickened it shall be thinned suitably with the thinner as recommend by manufacture.

• Materials :Steel doors and windows shall be manufactured using rolled steel sections of the weights specified in IS: 1038 latest issue. They shall be fixed, centre hung, top hung, bottom hung or composite as specified. The steel shall be of ST. 32-0 grade conforming to IS: 1977 or latest issue

• Size : The steel doors and windows shall be according to the specified sizes and design. The sizes of doors and windows shall be calculated so as to allow 1.25 cm clearance on all four sides of openings to allow for easy fitting of door, windows and ventilators into opening. The actual sizes of doors, windows and ventilators shall not vary by more than 1.5 mm from those given in drawing.

• Fabrication:Both the fixed and opening frames shall be constructed of sections which have been cut to length and mitred. The comers of fixed and opening frames shall be welded to form a solid-fused welded joint conforming to the requirements given below. All frames shall be square and flat. The process of welding adopted may be flash or butt welding or any other suitable method which gives the desired results.

• Requirements Of Welded Joints: Visual inspection test:- When two opposite corners of the frame are cut, paint removed and inspected, the joint shall conform to the following :

• Micro And Macro Examinations:  From the two opposite corners obtained for visual test, the flanges of the sections shall be cut with the help of a saw. The cut surfaces of the remaining portions shall be polished, etched and examined. The polished and etched faces of the weld and the base metal shall be free from cracks and fairly free from under cutting, overlaps, gross porosity and entrapped slag.

• Fillet Weld Test:  The fillet weld in the remaining portion of the joint obtained shall be fractured by hammering. The fractured surfaces shall be free from slag porosity, crack, penetration defects and fusion defects.

1. Door: The hinge pin shall be of electro-galvanised steel of suitable thickness and size. In the case of doors, the first closing leaf shall be the left hand leaf locking at the door from the push side. The first closing shutter shall have a concealed steel bolt at top and bottom. The bolts shall be so constructed as not to work loose or drop by their own weight .Single and double shutter door shall be provided with a three way bolting device. 
2. Windows : For fixed windows the frames shall be fabricated as described in fabrication. But side hung windows for fixing steel hinges slots shall be cut in the fixed frame and hinges inserted inside and welded to the frame. The hinges shall be of projecting types the hinge pin shall be of galvanised steel. Friction hinges shall be provided for side hung windows shutters if specified. The handle plate shall be welded, screwed or riveted to the opening frame in such a manner that it should be fixed before it is glazed and should not be easily removable after glazing. The handles shall have a two point nose which shall engage with a brass striking plate on the fixed frame in a slightly opened position as well as in the closed position.The boss of the handle shall incorporate a friction device to prevent handle from dropping under its own weight and the assembly shall be so designed that the rotation of the handle may not cause it to unscrew from the pin. The strike plate shall be so designed and fixed in such a position in relation to the handle that with the latter bearing against it stop, there shall be adequate light fit between casement and outer frame. In case where non-friction type hinges are provided, the windows shall be fitted with peg stags which shall be either of black oxidised steel or as specified, 300 mm long with steel peg and locking brackets. The pegs stay have three holes to open the side hung casement in three different angles. Side hung casement fitted with friction hinges shall not be provided with a peg stay.

• Galvanising :  All steel surfaces shall be thoroughly cleaned of rust, scale and dirt. Where so specified, the steel surfaces shall be treated for rust-proofing by the hot dip, zinc spray or electro-galvanising process. The rate shall be exclusive of final finishing coats but shall include the priming coat. 

• Fixing:  Where openings are flush and with a rendered finish a clearance of 1.25 cm shall be provided between the steel frame and opening. In the case of external masonry finish “Fair-Faced” and with rebated “jambs” a minimum 1.25 cm clearance between frame and opening shall be provided.

Fittings : Details of fittings to be provided shall be as per the schedule of fittings supplied by the Engineer-in-Charge in each case. The cost of providing and fixing shutters shall include the cost of hinges and necessary screws for fixing the same. All other fittings shall be enumerated and paid for separately. The fittings shall conform to their respective IS specifications. Where fittings are stipulated to be supplied by the department free of cost, screws for fixing the fittings shall be provided by the contractor andnothing extra will be paid for the same.